Yep, it’s all embroidered. All of it.

Vogue commissioned Irish-Danish artist Inge Jacobsen to create the magazine cover when she was still doing her degree. Since, she’s been commissioned to create woven campaigns for the likes of Georg Jensen, NYLON magazine and Guess Jeans.

Not too shabby for an artform usually associated with rocking chairs and roaring fires.

Inge’s nordic (and a little bit naughty) embroidery features delicate outlines of porno-seductive ladies woven into newspapers, and full-on embroidered pages of high fashion editorial shoots.

And yes, we would like to think that we could whip up one of these embroidered Vogues in an afternoon. It takes Inge between 20-30 hours (but she says tells us that she’s getting faster). We thought wrong.

We spoke with Inge herself. Here’s the sneakypeek.

{ How did you learn to cross-stitch? }

I learnt it at school when I was a child in Denmark; it was part of our needlework lessons. I didn’t think much of it at the time, although it was the only thing I really enjoyed in those lessons. My grandmother and her sisters had created some very beautiful and intricate cross-stitched pieces when they were younger, and those pieces inspired me to take it up again.

{ Which came first- your interest in fashion or your interest in needlework? }

My interest in fashion came first. I had been collecting Vogue magazines since I was 15 or 16 and it was their imagery that got me interested in fashion. For a few years I thought I wanted to be a fashion designer, or work in fashion, but I realised as I got to university that it wasn’t the making of the clothes that interest me, it was the imagery surrounding that industry.

I have had a massive crush on Chanel, Chloe, Prada, Miu Miu and Burberry for a good while, and my interest in needlework has only made me appreciate the quality and craftsmanship of these even more.

{ Why did you choose to work with Georg Jensen? }

As an artist it is sometimes difficult to know whether or not you should head into the commercial industry, but Georg Jensen isn’t just any other commercial company. They have a long and rich history of craft and design, and are known for supporting new and fresh talent.

Their bespoke silver wear pieces are still made by hand in Denmark by some of the best craftsmen and women in the industry. When they asked me to work with them, I knew I was being invited to be part of a history of prestigious artists and designers – how could I say no! I am so honoured to have worked with them and for the support they continue to give me.

{ What are you working on at the moment? }

I am working with a photographer called Rebecca Thomas on a series of images. It’s still fashion but this time it’s not from magazine pages. I’m also taking a break from cross-stitching and instead I’m using a series of back stitches to build up the areas.

It gives it a painted look, with the stitches resembling strokes of a brush. It’s been something I have wanted to try for a while, as painting is what I did before I began cross-stitching.

I’m also part of a group show in London called ‘Selling Sex’ at photographer Nick Knight’s SHOWstudio Shop. It’s an incredible honour to be exhibiting in his gallery and next to some of the top female artist’s in the industry. It’s on now and runs until June 1st.

oggi pomeriggio, alle 19:30 a roma viene battuta all’asta una mia immagine. il ricavato andrà all’ AIL.

per l’occasione ho fatto fare una cornice bellissima dal miglior corniciaio di milano: compratela se non altro per questo!

tutta l’asta ha dei pezzi molto interessanti, e l’amico maurizio galimberti metterà in vendita un’opera realizzata ad hoc.

questo l’invito:

questa la mia immagine in vendita, cliccabile ed ingrandibile:

Image: Raymond Cauchetier    Text: Jon Handelman

Patti Smith, in her poignant if not over-exposed National Book Award winning memoire, Just Kids, describes artistic life in New York in the 60s and 70s among artists, writers, painters, photographers, musicians and everything in between. What she paints is an idyllic landscape of creators supporting one another with their endeavors, an incubator of sorts of young artists, stewing in their creative juices and newly emerging talents. I wondered if such a place currently exists in Paris for young filmmakers. A place where the next generation of filmmakers not only hang out, but go to seek out each other’s creative wisdom, if not financial and emotional support, for the dizzying endeavor of making one’s own film.  Basically, I was looking for the filmmaker's version of the Chelsea Hotel of Paris.

Maxence Paris, whose witty and spirited short film Guilt Trip, currently making the short film festival rounds, notes that these days filmmakers make their own projects and create their own paths to film success. That’s not to say that support is not there when needed. Paris said that friends from film school and others filmmakers met along the way form a necessary support group.

Filmmaker Raphael Holt (whose starkly poignant film Jeudi 19 is also circulating the festival scene) notes that the mixing of artistic communities (visual artists, musicians, what have you) in Paris is what truly inspires his work.

Paris is not devoid of creative communities. A multitude of film groups, festivals and discussion events exist. It is heartening to know that the creative life force that is the foundation for young filmmakers’ successes has not been obliterated merely because the utopian artists community of Smith’s New York may not exist in Paris (and let’s be honest, probably didn’t exist for the majority of Smith’s contemporaries).

Les Rencontres Kinoma, is a group that brings together young cinephiles on a monthly basis, both allowing young filmmakers to show their short films in competition and also staging talks with industry veterans, who bring along that sage advice that can only be obtained through age and experience. The ambience at Les Rencontres Kinoma is warm and welcoming, where discussion thrives amidst a multitude of ‘cocktail’ breaks (full coverage of Les Rencontres Kinoma can be read here.)  

Another truly unique place for film lovers and makers alike is La Peniche Cinéma.  Housed in one of the barges moored at Canal de l’Ourcq in Parc de la Villette, La Peniche Cinéma is a welcoming environment that not only projects a wide variety of films but offers distinctive programs for novice and young filmmakers to explore their craft.  

Finally, although the traditional film festival route is not necessarily a beacon of fostering creativity, film festivals such as Ici & Demain: Festival Artistique Etudiante serve as an effective way for young filmmakers to get their work shown throughout the city. After attending a projection for this student film fest it was clear that the electric energy in the room reflected the mish mash of eclectic films presented, demonstrating the versatility (and lets be honest…levels of talent) that currently encompasses student-created film.  While it is unclear whether these endeavors create a sense of community for young filmmakers, it is at least clear that a system of support does exist for those willing to seek it out.

guido.westerwelle@bundestag.de

Sample Letter:

Dear Mr Westerwelle,

I was very concerned to hear that Germany has detained Sea Shepherd's Captain Paul Watson for possible extradition to Costa Rica.  I understand that the warrant for Captain Watson's arrest is politically motivated and possibly due to an incident in which Sea Shepherd uncovered an illegal shark finning operation.

I support Sea Shepherd's efforts to monitor and publicise illegal fishing and whaling around the world and recognize that some illegal fishing operations try to use international law to shut down the Sea Shepherd operations.  I urge you to consider the valuable work Captain Watson and Sea Shepherd are undertaking globally to highlight the dangers to our oceans in considering this extradition request.

Sincerely,

Your Name

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Salvatore Ferragamo reported a rise in profits in the first quarter of 10.2 per cent to €15.5 million, due to growth in all geographic regions and increased sales of shoes, bags, leather accessories and perfume across the board.

Sales were up by 23.4 per cent to €259.6 million, which was mainly attributed to strong sales in the Asia-Pacific region where sales increased by 27.3 per cent.

China is still leading the way with sales up by 36 per cent and Japan up by 9.9 per cent.

Despite the financial woes still evident in parts of Europe, Ferragamo consumers stayed loyal, with sales going up by 27.8 per cent.

Sales in the US increased by 17.6 per cent, despite the temporary closure of its Fifth Avenue flagship store, due to renovations. The NY store is the group’s biggest source of turnover.

Looking at the product categories, sales of shoes climbed 26.2 per cent, while bags and leather accessories sales increased 24.3 per cent. Bags and shoes represent almost three quarters of total company sales. Perfume sales rose by 35.7 per cent, which was due to the launch of the new Ferragamo ladies’ fragrance Signorina.

Image credit: perfumediary.com

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When The MO Down read this notice on the Reuters website, we nearly spilled coffee down our couture as it contradicts some of the negative commentary that we’ve written about.

The outlook revision and affirmation follow LVMH’s reported strong operating performance in 2011 and reflect S&P’s anticipation that LVMH will likely achieve increasingly conservative financial metrics as of this year.

The ratings continue to be underpinned by S&P’s view of LVMH’s strong business risk profile, which since 2010 has benefited from the sharp rebound in the global luxury goods markets. LVMH has an unparalleled world-leading position with a flurry of prestigious luxury brands in their portfolio.

S&P believe that luxury goods will continue to benefit from favourable growth trends on the back of robust momentum in emerging markets.

LVMH has started 2012 with an exceptional performance, announcing a vigorous 25 per cent jump in sales in the first quarter.

S&P view LVMH’s financial policy as conservative.

The positive outlook reflects the possibility that they could upgrade LVMH if it continued to report robust sales growth, generated high free cash flow, and achieved adjusted FFO to net debt in excess of 60 per cent on a sustainable basis. S&P expect discretionary cash flow to exceed €1 billion in coming years.

S&P might consider revising the outlook to stable if LVMH were unable to maintain its ratio of adjusted FFO to net debt above 60 per cent.

Image credit: mode.vogue.fr

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Wes Anderson’s new film, Moonrise Kingdom, premiered tonight at the opening of the Cannes Film Festival. The film is set in the summer of 1965 on an isolated New England island, and is the story of a young boy and girl who fall in love and run away together. Anderson is known for his distinct cinematic style, creating a whole new world with each project. This latest film brings together an all-star cast, including Anderson vets Bill Murray and Jason Schwartzman, as well as some new faces: Bruce Willis, Frances McDormand, Edward Norton, and Tilda Swinton. Having premiered only a few hours ago, it is already receiving rave reviews, “In the case of Moonrise Kingdom, I think he’s at his very best,” wrote HitFix critic Drew McWeeny. “[Anderson's] energized by the subject matter and blessed with a cast that came ready to play.”

We’ve always been particularly intrigued by the costumes in Anderson’s films, from the track suits in The Royal Tenenbaums to the submariners’ uniforms in The Life Aquatic with Steve Zissou, and the ensembles in Moonrise were just as interesting and central to the story. Costume designer Kasia Walicka Maimone worked with Anderson on the film, pouring over thousands of vintage photographs for inspiration. They would then create collages and rough sketches for each outfit, Anderson giving his feedback every step of the way.

In keeping with the creative track of the set and prop production, the majority of the costumes were handmade. “A lot of them had starting points in real vintage pieces or research,” Walicka Maimone reveals. “But then we would make it our own, while always adhering to Wes’ vision.” Particularly important to Anderson was that the costumes not only fit with the film aesthetically, they also needed to communicate on their own. “In the fittings, there would always be a moment of adjustment, “ Walicka Maimone explains. “Not just, ‘Do we need to change a color or a shape?’ but, ‘Does what we created resonate?’”

Follow the jump to read more!

The largest sartorial undertaking was the design and production of the Khaki Scouts uniforms. After carefully researching 1960s boy scout uniforms and consulting with Anderson, Walicka Maimone and her team created every single element of the costumes – from the socks to the badges and everything in between. In all, they manufactured 350 individual uniforms.

One of Walicka Maimone’s favorite costumes was the ensemble she designed for Tilda Swinton’s character, Social Services. Yes, you read that right, her name is Social Services. Swinton describes her character, “Social Services represents authority, force majeure; when mayhem erupts, she is called in to impose order.” Walicka Maimone turned to the Salvation Army for inspiration, as well as women-in-service uniforms. “Social Services’ uniform was the most structured, the most physically tailored piece we had,” she explained. Structure begetting structure, if you will.

The film is being released on May 25^th, but we have a chance for you to attend a special advance screening on May 23rd! Head on over to our Facebook page, look for the Moonrise Kingdom pic, and answer this simple question, If you were going to run away – where would you go?

We’ll be picking four lucky winners who will each receive a pair of tickets to the advance screening, as well as one grand prize winner who will win two VIP tickets to the screening and a prize pack! The screening is on Wednesday, May 23^rd, at 7:30 PM at Embarcadero Cinemas. All entries must be received by Tuesday, May 22nd at 5:00 PM. This contest open to Academy of Art University students only. Good luck!!

Dress by Caterina Takka, shades YSL

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A little nail art lovin' ... more pics here. 

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OMG these two ladies are beyond stunning on the red carpet at the Cannes Film Festival Day 1. Diane is wearing Giambattista Valli and Eva in Marchesa. Love, love, love! 

The morning of Thursday, May 3rd, our illustration instructor, Cecilia Aragon, told the class to put up our best work knowing Her Royal Highness Princess Reema Bandar Al-Saud might visit the class.

When I saw her enter the café while my class took a coffee break, my first reaction was excitement; uncertainty was just a breath behind.  Are we allowed to speak with her?  Would we be allowed to meet her?  Cecilia urged me to ask if she would let the class draw her. A short dialogue and some instruction later, I rejoined my classmates in the café where we actually met Princess Reema.

I asked how she preferred to be addressed.  To my mild surprise she allowed us to be on a first name basis —no “your royal highness,” no title…I asked again just to be sure as uncertainty reared it’s head again.  She left the impression of an easy-going individual, down to earth with a sense of humor.  After some small talk she invited us to watch Philip Treacy’s millinery demonstration.  I returned to class to inform Cecilia when the break ended, but being a teacher, she had us continue drawing before a word was said.  During the lunch break, excitement trumped hunger and watching the demonstration took precedence.

Follow the jump to read more!

Forget lunch. How often do I get to hang out with royalty?

There was no “hanging out,” obviously, but after the demonstration I found an opportunity to ask Princess Reema if she’d let my class draw her, provided there was time for it.  She graciously agreed. “I’d like to meet the students,” she said, while checking her schedule, effectively choosing the class over her own lunch and gracing us with her presence.

I’d call it a once-in-a-lifetime experience.  She looked comfortable – if anything, she looked like she had a bit of fun while they were on-stage.  Observation: royalty doesn’t lean, let alone slouch.  I don’t remember what Princess Reema and her friend, Mona Hamdy, said before we started drawing, but there were some words and a jovial push from Her Highness. The first words that usually come to mind to describe royalty are serious and stuffy.  Princess Reema undid that in a matter of seconds.  It was great seeing she and Mona in a relaxed mood and laughing!  The talking stopped for about ten minutes as we drew.  When we finished, Princess Reema and Mona went around the room to see the results of our work.  A few students and Cecilia asked for pictures and Mona expressed appreciation and gave encouragement before leaving - thanking us for the time we put into our work and looking forward to seeing us out in the world.  More than that was said, and it was so much more uplifting, but I was so caught up in the moment that I didn’t remember it all.  Maybe someone else might recall it word for word.  I would hope so.

When they left and class resumed, I was still erupting with excitement—barely containing a shout, punching the air, and clicking my heels.

Written By: Emmanuel Solomon

The U.A.E is one of those places. Luxury houses have found it hard to make their way into one of the wealthiest nations in the world. Most have had to turn to local businesses to make it work.

Tiffany & Co is one of them, but that is about to change with the news that the American jeweller is about to take more control of the brand in the U.A.E, which is unusual given no luxury brands can have full subsidiaries in U.A.E due to laws, so with this revised structure Tiffany & Co. will have more control over the brand it seems.

Forbes reports that Tiffany & Co is restructuring its joint venture with retailer Damas Jewellery, international jewellery and watch retailer in the U.A.E.

Under the new agreement between the two companies, all of operational, merchandising and sales, and marketing management for the five Tiffany & Co stores in the U.A.E will be transferred from Damas to Tiffany.

“This restructuring of our retail presence in the U.A.E through this joint venture with Damas allows us, for the first time, to wholly manage Tiffany’s operational activities,” Laurent Cathala, Tiffany’s VP of Emerging Markets told Forbes.

“It underscores the importance of the U.A.E market to our global expansion strategy and highlights our optimism about the long-term growth potential we see throughout the Middle East.”

Stephane de Palmas has been appointed as general manager of the U.A.E retail operation.

Image credit: dubaimetro.eu

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Last night, Kara Laricks, 2008 M.F.A. Fashion Design alumna, won the first season of NBC’s Fashion Star! Kara, along with another alum – Ronnie Escalante, 2008 B.F.A. Fashion Design – and Nzimiro Oputa were the three finalists. Kara has dazzled judges and buyers throughout the competition, and though there were a few snags along the way, we can’t say we’re surprised she won. She has a strong signature aesthetic and remained true to her vision throughout the competition, while expanding it enough to give her collections range.

Follow the jump to read more!

Each finalist was tasked with creating a capsule collection for the three retailers, H & M, Macy’s and Saks Fifth Avenue. The collections had to be tailored to the specific stores, and simultaneously maintain the designer’s brand. Several of Kara’s pieces were instant standouts, but there were also a few looks that buyers weren’t so sure about – it was not a simple decision. In the end, Kara’s strong design skills and unique point of view earned her the top spot. Each of her collections was bought by the respective retailers for a total of $6 million, and will be sold in stores today as well as online here.

We are so proud of Kara and wish her the best of luck as she moves forward with her career!

Chopard 与世界上最有名的电影节组成的伙伴关系，可追溯到 15 年前的 5 月 16 日。当法国里维埃海滨小镇在 11 天电影节期间变成迷人的电影首映场地时，同时也成为电影世界最瞩目的热点。这里能让热爱时装和珠宝首饰的人大饱眼福，Chopard 的宝石在世界上一些最美丽女性的优雅领口上闪闪生辉，已经令人习以爲常了。

为纪念 Marilyn Monroe，Chopard 制作了一条比其他首饰都更闪耀的项链。名模 Eva Herzigova 将会戴上这条心形项圈，为传统的电影节开幕式走红地毯。

 Marilyn 总是说“钻石是女孩最好的朋友”，我们很喜爱这句厚脸皮但真实的说话。“Marilyn Jewellery Set” 由 Chopard 的工匠精心制作，重塑出 Marilyn 的绝美笑容和艳光四射的时尚感。

Read more on Paul Watson's arrest and how you can support Sea Shepherd at: www.seashepherd.org

...it takes a foreigners duo to understand and capture the rare and original beauty of Cyprus.

Please visit the Monsieur Chypre website and download soundtrack, posters, postcards, tattoos !!

MONSIEUR CHYPRE a film by ANTOINE ASSERAF & RENE HABERMACHER a THE STIMULEYE production STARRING CONSTANTINO KOUYIALIS as MONSIEUR CHYPRE LOAN CHABANOL (ELITE) as MADEMOISELLE PARIS PARIS UNIT STYLING - MICHAELA DOSAMANTES HAIR - ROMINA MANENTI MAKE-UP - TIINA ROIVANEN PRODUCTION ASSISTANT - LYNSEY PEISINGER LOCATION - HIROMI OTSUKA CATERING - EROKITCHEN VOICE by LYNSEY PEISINGER MUSIC by LORI SCHONBERG + SHANE ASPEGREN POSTPRODUCTION by THE STIMULEYE CYPRUS UNIT ALSO STARRING MYRTO KOUYIALIS DIVA MODELS: ALEXANDRA BUNETSKAYA KLELIA YIASEMIDOU ANNA DOROTHEOU LOCATIONS: ALMYRA & ANASSA THANOS HOTELS ALL CLOTHES CYPRUS: EROTOKRITOS ARCHIVES PARIS CLOTHES featuring LOUIS VUITTON, EROTOKRITOS, LOUIS VUITTON JEWELRY, APERLAI, MARC JACOBS, DIOR, FELIPE OLIVEIRA BAPTISTA, AURELIE BIDERMAN, OLATZ, KIKI DE MONTPARNASSE, BURBERRY AND VALENTINO THANK YOU Dimitris Dimitriou / Cyprus Tourist Organisation in Paris Philippos Philippou / Cyprus Airways Pavlos Metaxas / Diva models Antonakis Bar Eleni Chrysostomidou Lida Philippidou Mary Nicolaidou Maroulla Antoniadou Gallery Argo Nicosia Kostas Mantzalos The city of Nicosia The city of Paphos & Filep Motwary

This presentation and networking event allows fashion designers to present and discuss their designs for consideration in a new fashion incubator. Aspiring designers must register with FASHION+TECHSF in advance in order to present. Attendees will also be able to meet other entrepreneurs who provide resources for the local fashion and tech industries including local fashion entrepreneurs, business professionals, interns, students, designers, app developers, bloggers, stylists and producers.

• WHAT: FASHION+TECHSF: Next Gen Fashion Designers / Fashion Incubator Presentations
• WHEN: May 17th, 2012, Door opens at 5:30pm
• WHERE: Pigment Cosmetics, One Market Street #140, San Francisco, CA
• RSVP: Eventbrite/ $10 at the door

FEATURED PRESENTERS/ DESIGNERS: Audrey Szeto, Claire Farwell, Deborah Hodgson, Diana Mitchell, Dustin Page, Gerry Kelly, Jonathan Niemuth, Julian Prince Dash, Mariya Milovidova, Scott Mcfarland, Skylier Blanchard, Tamara Jaric

Product Presentation By: 

HipSwap is a mobile and web marketplace that enables you to discover what’s inside the most fabulous closets, homes and shops in your neighborhood - or any neighborhood across America. HipSwap also enables any person, merchant, stylist, artist or designer to quickly and easily sell products to friends, customers, fans or neighbors. And best of all, HipSwap delivers in Los Angeles and gearing up to roll out delivery in major cities across America throughout 2012.

We connect fashion designers, fashion startups, app developers and retail/fashion entrepreneurs to human and capital resources. Find out what all the buzz is about in fashion and technology. Come learn about innovative new products and business models and the people behind them to accelerate your networking and business opportunities. Present and promote your product. Get feedback. Get users. Get a fanbase. Get connected to an enthusiastic community of fashion professionals, entrepreneurs and resources.

• For media relations & PR/Publicity Contact Owen Geronimo
• Attend SFFAMA Events
• Join SFFAMA, Follow SFFAMA, Like SFFAMA.

Florence + The Machine performs the lead song, Breath of Life, for the new feature film Snow White and the Huntsman – and they’ve just released the official music video. Florence Welch’s powerful voice is a perfect match for the dark, epic film. She is accompanied by a large orchestra and 60-person choir and recorded the song at the historic Abbey Road Studios. Black-and-white footage form the recording session is intercut with clips from the film, creating a beautiful, haunting effect.

Follow the jump to watch the entire video!

Dear iDEALS, Within the three day framework at the Kunsthalle project space, Cinema Photographique, in collaboration with Michael Dürr, AUSTRIANFASHION.NET hosted a fashion evening featuring two Viennese concept stores "Meine Kollegen" and "Nachbarin", both known for their mix of national and international labels.

Austrianfashion.net, the Austrian and international fashion platform and online magazine has teamed up with the stores "Meine Kollegen" and "Nachbarin" in order to source the Spring/ Summer 2012 designs to be featured in the evening's fashion show, unveiling a unique photoshoot. 22 Austrian and international labels were included, mixed and matched with vintage and archive pieces, producing 16 outfits stuled by the fashion designers Weiwei Xu, Claudia Rosa Lukas and the store manager Claudia Ho.

The fashion photography expert Michael Dürr took the outfits in their best light, while the urban- and subway-artist Hannes Groblacher looked on and documented all the behind-the-scenes of the production in his sketches, 25 of which were shown on the evening. The high-quality artistic co-production, the stylish designer clothes and the unrepeatable ambient atmosphere made for a day at the Kunsthalle long to be remembered!

with Fashion and Accessoires by ANNA AICHINGER / Anita Moser / Astrid Deigner / A.F. VANDEVORST / BAIBA RIPA / Bradaric Ohmae / Bruno Pieters / Cathy Pill / CLAUDIA ROSA LUKAS / Dejan Dukic / Dries Van Noten / FLorian / Flor de Illusion / GON / Josefine / Philippe Roucou / RAF SIMONS / rosa mosa / Susanne Hammer / SONJA BISCHUR / SWASH / Walter Van Beirendonck

http://www.michaelduerr.com

http://michaelduerrphotography.blogspot.com/

http://www.austrianfashion.net

http://www.meinekollegen.com

http://www.nachbarin.co.at

http://www.ubahnpeople.com

We have been fortunate enough to see artisans do their ‘craft’ over the years and yesterday we were mesmerised by the Gucci artisans, who are visiting from Florence, Italy.

The Gucci boutique in Sydney’s Westfield played host to the four artisans, who will be touring Sydney and Melbourne before they return to Italy.

The MO Down stopped by to see what the fuss was all about and we were pleasantly surprised.

Watching their hands glide over tanned leather, whilst one monogrammed a wallet with love.. Watching the sewing machine whirr and whirl working on a bamboo handle bag…All done with a smile of course.

Gucci’s customers had the chance to get a customised bag made and able to watch the experience. An experience one wouldn’t forget!

But not only were we spoilt by the up and close experience in store today, we were also treated to a cocktail reception.

Delta Goodrem was there dressed in Gucci and a great unofficial ambassador for the brand, she loves the brand and wears it extremely well. In typical down-to-earth Delta way she was relaxed and grounded and was talking openly and having pics taken with some of Gucci’s loyal clients.  She was genuinely interested in this bespoke craft asking many questions of the Italian craftsmen, perhaps a DG embossed handbag is in the making right now!

The beauty of the artisans making these pre-ordered handbags as the evening evolved was very special, other clients had their wallets personalised with embossing.

A delightful opportunity to experience the time, care, precision and quality that goes into making these leather goods.  Make sure you see them instore, as a reminder the dates are Gucci Sydney Flagship (15-17th May), Gucci The Star (22-23rd May), and Melbourne Chadstone(29-31st May).

Image credit: Gucci

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Vogue has announced that, starting with their June 2012 issue, they are making a conscious effort to promote a healthier body image. The editors of Vogue’s 19 international editions made a pact banning the use of models under the age of 16 and those who appear to have an eating disorder. The Condé Nast International Chairman, Jonathan Newhouse, told the New York Times, “Vogue editors around the world want the magazines to reflect their commitment to the health of the models who appear on the pages and the well-being of their readers.”

Follow the jump to read more!

While it remains to be seen how this will actually impact the models we see in the fashion mag, it is a step in the right direction. Magazines have been blamed for years for promoting unrealistic standards of beauty and weight, and while individuals from the publications have spoken out in support of healthier practices, this is the first time that an official decree has been made. It comes on the heels of the Council of Fashion Designers of America set of guidelines for designers that they set forth for the Fall ’12 fashion shows, asking them not to use models younger than 16.

It is encouraging that something is finally being done about this pressing issue – we just hope that it makes a difference.

To read the entire statement, click here.

The Madewell Denim Roadtrip has been traveling the country, bringing their finest denim attire to the denim-loving masses – and their making a stop in San Francisco! Tomorrow, May 16th, they’ll be setting up shop at Grant and Geary from 12 – 7 PM. Stop by the specially outfitted airstream trailer for some fun surprises including a styling station, hair braiding bar, and a secret denim deal!

WHEN: Wednesday, May 16th from 12 to 7 PM

WHERE: Grant and Green Streets

该展览将围绕“异域风情”、“自然灵感”、“精致优雅”与“女性柔美” 四个主题展开。展品将会突显出每个主题背后的传承意义，其中包含了一些最著名的作品，例如由 Grace Kelly 和 Elizabeth Taylor 等标志性人物所穿戴过的饰品。Van Cleef & Arpels 也将罕有地展出一些高级珠宝作品，让参观者大饱眼幅，这实在是千载难逢的机会。

我们建议你尽快到上海当代艺术馆感受巴黎的魅力！

“永恒之美”举行时间为 5 月 20 日至 7 月 15 日

Host: Nancie Mwai
Video by Stephen Muriungi and Gitau Muti
Photocredit: Modahnik

尽管特吕佛在导演札记里写道电影改编自巴尔扎克的小说《幽谷百合》，熟悉他作品的人都知道Baisers Volés是带有导演本人青年时代的情感经历。Antoine Doinel在女友Christine Darbon和老板的太太Mme Tabard之间摇摆不定。Christine是法国人眼中标准的BCBG (bon chic, bon genre，出身良好，举止优雅)–也就是中国人说的秀外慧中了，而Mme Tabard则神秘莫测。这样的恋情只有少年人才能体会：你一味付出，不求回报，转身又变了心意；热情来得猛烈去得也快。

电影中有我非常喜欢的一幕。Antoine Doinel去Christine父母家看她。在两人下地窖拿葡萄酒时，他忽然吻了Christine－法国人把这样措手不及的吻叫做baiser volé，“偷吻”。

也许是我的一厢情愿，但我总觉得Cartier的香水和特吕佛的电影有着千丝万缕的关系。这款香水由Mathilde Laurent设计，她像特吕佛一样，捕捉了青春恋情琢磨不定的特质。香水是百合味的（百合既是法国王室的象征，也是巴尔扎克小说的标题）——仅仅是巧合吗？香味毫不张扬，像恋人间心照不宣的默契；像萌芽的恋情一样新鲜，像不经意的回眸般优雅。

你也许想知道，Antoine 和Christine后来怎么样了。在《偷吻》的续集中，我们看到两人订婚、结婚，最后离婚。婚后，两人去Christine的父母家，又出现两人一起去酒窖拿葡萄酒的一幕。

不同的是，这回Christine因为Antoine没有吻她而恼怒了。“Dis-donc”，她把Antoine拉到身边，深深一吻。但是一个偷来的吻再也不能重演。快乐总是容易逝去，像香气一样。还是趁拥有时好好享受吧。

Photocredit: Kristian Dowling/Getty Images North America

Dear iDEALS, every month I receive around 30 to 50 emails from young designers who want to show me their work and hear my opinion. It becomes rarer and rarer to get stimulated, since we live in a period of globalized communication where everyone is equal when it comes to inspiration, as the accessibility of information is now free, due to the power of the internet.

Today young Marlen Keller, who has just graduated from the University of Applied Sciences and Arts in Basel, Switzerland, sent me her collection for the summer of 2012 and I feel you have to see it to. I love it!

www.marlenkeller.com

"I met the Queen today" – this is something I never expected to say. I’ve worked with designer Alice Palmer for several seasons and she was invited to participate in Fashion Capital’s  "London as a Global Centre of Fashion" Diamond Jubilee Celebrations in Bromley. Alice invited her PR Alison Lowe, her assistant and me to the event – we refer to ourselves as "Team Alice!" We knew the Queen would pass by the pod and there was the possibility that she would stop and say hello – but the most we hoped was that Queen would say hello to…

isabel beretz

bianca gebhardt

elena weidemann

debbie walice

tobias lisius

marusja archipov

lex olsén

charlotte potempa

tom ayre

如果你还不太了解这名个性独特的CONVERSE滑手，那你必须要了解关于他的二三事：Raymond Molinar既喜欢生活中的简单事物——比如塑料葡萄串、房车和古董照相机，也热衷于追随最新的科技；他着迷于乐器收藏，本人也是一名专注的音乐人。Raymond的滑板风格轻松流畅，总是执着地追求完美，视频中一气呵成的动作就是最好的证明。

Sea Star LS

Gowns by Christian Dior, created for Hollywood stars such as Grace Kelly, Rita Hayworth and Elizabeth Taylor (fifty items in all) are on exhibit at the mythical designer’s birthplace museum at Granville, Normandy, north of France, at the moment.  The museum is located in the “Les Rhumbs” villa, where Dior was born in 1905.

Above, right, Dior himself with a model and, in the other black and white pictures, a couple of designs from the A/W 1955 collection, showing the Y line (Dior loved giving his lines the names of alphabet letters to define the overall silhouette, Y narrows downwards, A is a sort of trapeze, and H ignores the waistline, then there was the figure 8, rounded above and below a narrow waist…).  The man was a brilliant, innovative designer, particularly considering he never really intended to pursue this career in his youth, as he was happy merely designing costumes for his own pleasure…  Still, his father, an industrialist, lost his fortune in the 1931 crash and, luckily for the world and, I daresay,  fashion history, the young man had to get himself a job learning what was then not considered a suitable activity for a “gentleman”.  He became famous when, after the wartime restrictions, he introduced the “new look” in 1947, which can be resumed in the employment of heaps of fabric to create long, wide skirts…women in the streets of Paris were attacked by other women who thought this display of abundant materials signified a lack of respect for the hard, post-war times.

Below, a picture of some of the gowns at the Granville exhibition (image by AP)

The designer’s career was extraordinary, albeit short.  After being acclaimed worldwide for the “new look”, he spent the following ten years of his life renovating himself with every  collection and was THE designer “par excellence”, not only for Hollywood stars, but also for women all over the world who wished to obtain the Dior look, with or without the means to buy the “real thing”.  In 1957 he went to a spa in Italy, Montecatini Terme, to rest and recover from overwork, or that’s what he hoped for, for fate had decided otherwise and he didn’t leave the place alive…but he had already become a legend.

We need a post[mode]rn [Flo]re:science,­ a Renai[chance] for our city,­ actually looking like an [ego]nomically H&Mized Louis Vuit[town]­ tuned on a dead Chan[n]el n.5

Digital Illustration by Filep Motwary

A curatorial project starts when something sick has to be cured [or curated]. From George Bush’s shocking-and-astonishing Baghdad bombing night-time TV show, continuing on with liquid heavens of digital non-places, we don’t live real moments of ours to be [im]pressed forever, we just typify time and space posting impressive third party pictures and, as a consequence, all what we do is rattle off a sequence of ‘sort-ofs.

The real moment is a nomad monad, a situation in which time and space ultimately overlap, in which the relative becomes absolute, and the transient event becomes an emotional memory. Memories are not to be the dusty folders of our brain, they have to stay settled only for a while, because they are asked to produce new actions that potentially become absolute, new emotions, new nomads in search for monads.

Moreover, there is on one side the attraction for a photography’s fastness because its speed makes it immediate. While architecture’s timing and placing is usually measured in years, an image can be captured in a fraction of a second. On the other hand, photography is more pressing as it is based on capturing a transient absolute that, after that fraction of a second, would be only relative.

The real moment is not the moment for real, or the modernist present-become past-become future, it’s rather a continuously constructed, deconstructed and reconstructed composition of time and space bindings.­ It’s not the historical straightforwardness but a self-referential presence [or lack of absence]. It’s not the dualism between good and bad, clean and dirty, innocent and guilty, but a conscious lost innocence, good and dirty [or bad and clean]. The real moment is not a photographed memorial of time and space, archived and posted. It’s not an H&Mized-Renaissance tour-operated city. Nor a fashion fossil exposed in a museum. The real moment is authentic, literally self-standing and capable of further actions. It’s Re:naissance and authenti[city].

Purchased experiences don’t count and shopping is not creating. Florence needs a conversational project to heal from the small-city-syndrome, to become once again “Truth is no more than a variety of error” Friedrich Nietzsche a city on the move, a large collage of interconnected activities, of parallel universes, minds and streets. It needs to become an urban laboratory gathering visual and plastic art, fashion, architecture, writing and poetry, and theatre, as well as science. It needs new blood, a contamination of heterogeneous points of view, an injection of thoughtful creativeness. It needs a production-of-reality educational moment where the city is not exhibited but is the exhibition itself, a per-formative milieu with an augmented metabolism able to investigate non-applicable models. It needs a non-target-oriented educational moment where unpredictability, failure and error are allowed to happen. Only through these highly non-linear diagrams of psycho-geography we are able to not for-get, to produce memorable non-commercial memories, a protest in the sense of pro-test, an anti-authoritative moment that doesn’t necessarily mean oppositional, but simply authentic.

Let’s do it. Florence lives magic and fear, like every city today. It’s not Las Vegas [the city without errors], or Disneyland [the adventure without risk], its nicest place is not McDonald’s [as Andy Warhol once sarcastically said], and education is not instruction, it’s not the object of study, but the work to make it. Routine is the worst enemy, so let’s start with some international and interdisciplinary conversation to convert [and converse] Florence into what it is.

Momenting the Memento means to give life to archi[textures], new memories of habitus meeting the habitat, instead of archiving and celebrating the previous ones. Quit recycling the past and start up-cycling the future. So, let’s take fashion out from its reliquaries, let its Renaissance shine again out of the current multi-clustered, conflictual [but also convergent] spirit of time. Let education be writing instead of only be reading. Let the statues come out from the colourful postcards and walk like living human beings, let’s give Florence a Renai[chance] before the posthuman is reduced to the postman, and our so modernisms become obsolete wasms.

**Danilo Venturi – Researcher, Head Of Department International Masters Polimoda , & lecturer – March 2012

SOURCES

Amendola G., “La Città Postmoderna”, Editori Laterza, Bari, 2003

Coupland D., “Generation X”, Hachette, London, 1991

Jencks C., “The Post-Modern Reader”, John Wiley and Sons Ltd, London, 2011

Lemoine-Luccioni E., “Psicoanalisi della Moda”, Bruno Mondadori, Milano, 2002

Obrist H.U., “Everything You Always Wanted to Know about Curating”, Sternberg Press,NY/Berlin, 2006

Venturi D., “Luxury Hackers”, Lindau, Torino, 2011

Back when we reviewed Louis Vuitton’s creepy pop-art photo series, we told you that nothing’s scarier than a clown. But it seems Gail Sorronda took on the challenge and created a collection for S/S 2012-13 that was both un-scary and completely gorgeous.

Taking place in The Box, an installation space created for Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Australia, the show featured spotlighted models that stood in eery silence in front of a post-modern, slo-mo art film. Gail Sorronda’s femme-clowns wore hair caps reminiscent of 20′s bathing beauties and girly babydoll frocks.

 This kooky collection featured cheeky pom-pom embellishments, collars, retro polkadots and rainbow brights. There was also a sweet sprinkling of floral jewellery.

The subtle, multi-strap sandal flatform is also perhaps one of the only fashionably acceptable forms of flatform (we’re talking to you, Jeffrey Campbell). Luckily, it was the subtle multi-strap variety that was featured in this collection- nice one!

Clown couture has inspired the likes of Christian Dior, Moschino, and Rei Kawakubo. But it’s hard to find a collection that is both aspirational and wearable. Gail Sorronda’s is both-  we want to own it all!

Whether you’re into existential clown-angst, King Lear style or just need a whimsical wardrobe update- Gail’s your girl.

Top 2 images by Monique Friedlander

Bottom 3 images by wharton@115x